Thursday, January 19, 2012

Antarctica

What can I say about Antarctica?  It is beautiful. I never imagined that white, black and blue could be so breathtakingly beautiful.
We started off in Ushuaia, Argentina for our trip to the seventh continent. Ushuaia is the southern most city in the world and an absolute delight. We stayed right in the centre of town, in the Lennox Hotel, which has the smallest single beds I have ever seen or slept in. We arrived a few days early - did not want to miss the boat. Had a few days of sightseeing, then the big day came.
The ship that would be our home for the next 12 days was the "Antarctic Dream"
She is a small vessel, taking only 82 passengers. What a blessing.
Boarding was a breeze and the first thing we did after leaving Ushuaia, was the Lifeboat drill. When I saw the small 'sardine cans' completely enclosed, each one made for 51 people, I freaked. Suffering from claustophobia - I prayed we would never have to use them. 
We were issued our bright red warm jackets, rubber boots and 2 life jackets. One for our daily excursions, one for the lifeboats only.
By the time we reached the open sea, a rather strong wind had sprung up and when I saw the crew with their patches behind the ear, I knew we were in for a rough ride. Then we hit Drakes Passage, one of the roughest seas in the world. For 2 days we had gale force winds measuring 60knots at times, and our little ship bounced happily on the waves. We were confined to our cabins for a day because it was so rough, but other times we did venture into the dining room. I must admit, I rarely left my cabin as I felt queasy all the time. I was not actually sick, but I was not well. My friend, who shared the cabin with me, was concerned and called the very good looking ships doctor. When he approached the bed - mind you I was fully clothed (drat) - the ship lurched and he ended up on top of me. So I lifted up the cover and said - you might as well come in! After much hilarity and laughter he decided there was nothing to worry about me and left.
We went ashore for the first time at Yankee Harbour, and walked the short distance to a Gentoo penguin rookerie. Nearly all of the penguins had chicks and it was so special to see them feeding and caring for their young.
The weather in the Gerlache Strait was even worse and we lost 4 hours in time.  When we finally made it to Antarctica, all of that was forgotten. The sea was calm, huge icebergs were floating past, looking blue in the brilliant sunshine. There are mountains and valleys, the rock black in the vastness of the snowfields. It is the most magnificent scenery I have ever seen in my life. It literally took my breath away.
We disembarked, and at 2.30pm on Saturday December 13th, 2008  I stood on the actual continent of Antarctica.
We went ashore on the continent twice more, then started our return jouney to Ushuaia. On the way back we visited Deception Island which in earlier years was a whaling station and has an active volcano. The last eruption in the 60's blew out the side of the volcano and let the water into the crater, which now enables ships to enter the caldera. The Zodiac took us ashore to the 'thermal baths'  This is where the hot water comes to the surface and some of the passengers went for a swim.  I went for a walk along the beach, when suddenly 5 penguins bounced out of the water, nearly knocking me over. Well, we did collide, but as they are only about 50cm tall, I was steady on my feet. No damage done to the birds, but they did have a funny grin on their faces!
When it was time to leave it was with sadness. The pristine beauty and the stillness of Antarctica will remain with me forever.






Monday, January 2, 2012

Machu Picchu, Peru

When I was a young girl, eager to learn about "The world" and foreign cultures, I was captivated by a documentary on TV about the Incas in Peru.
Before they were so brutally exterminated and slaughtered by the spanish, these people had one of the highest cultures ever known.
One of their achievements are their now world famous "Inca Walls".
These are stone walls put together without mortar. They have multiple corners  and they fit together so perfectly that not a pin would and could fit in between. Still today it is not known how the Incas did that as they had no tools to cut the stones.
The narrator told of the sites in and near Cuzco, especially Sacsahuaman, with it's huge stone walls. Some of these stones weigh over 300 tons and all of them fit together perfectly. In Cuzco itself there is one stone in particular that took my fancy. This stone is about 1 metre square and has 12 corners. On TV, the person explaining the site, tried to put a pin in between the stones - but try as he might - it would not go in. This fascinated me. There and then I promised myself, one day - one day, I am going to see that. (That's when the travel bug bit!)
It took a long, long time, but on my 60th birthday I had my picture taken in front of that stone in Cuzco, Peru. 
But this was just the beginning of my fantastic journey. I boarded the train for Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas as it is called, and that is an adventure in itself. The train works its way into the Andes via a zig zag railway and the view of Cuzco at my feet was quite something.
When I arrived in Aguas Calientes, my case was taken to the Hotel and I boarded the Bus for Machu Picchu. It was a hair raising journey up a steep mountain with no railings or walls for safety. Going through the entry gates, turning the corner and seeing Machu Picchu before me in all its glory -  I couldn't help myself - I cried.
A guide was waiting for me to explain all about the site and then I set off by myself, really exploring the ruins. Much later I found my way back  to the Hotel and had a peaceful night.
I woke up at 4, eager to go up the mountain for the sunrise and when I looked out, it was raining.
Blast!
I made it back up the mountain at about 7am and how blessed can one be? The rain had stopped and the fog was slowly lifting from the site - it was utter magic.
But the best thing was yet to come, I was going to climb Huayna Picchu, which is the sugar loaf mountain seen at the back of the ruins and captured in every photograph.
The climb is not easy, but I made it. When I had nearly reached the summit, a lady coming down told me: "Not far to go now - don't be scared of the rope."  A rope, what rope?
The rope you have to hang on to to climb the last 10 metres to the summit of cause!
I did make it and what a view. There were the tears again!
Coming down was not as easy as I thought, but I arrived at base camp safe and sound. Had I finished for the day? No - there was the Sungate, at the other end of the site. This is where the people arrive who hike the Inca Trek. It is about a 3 km walk from the ruins, and even though it looks very easy, it is treacherous. I did it without mishap and by about 5pm I have  had enough. The reason being - I was hardly able to walk. You have to remember. I am 60 years old. Climbed the mountain - very steep - then a 6km walk and then all the other walking around I had been doing. I was bushed. On top of that, I had to walk back to my hotel - another km or so. How I did it, I do not remember. I do remember however, having a large beer on my way to the Hotel, which I enjoyed tremendously.
The next day I left Aguas Calientes. The train arrives in Cuzco about 8pm and the last hour, the zig zag down the mountain is something I will never forget.  The light was turned off in the train and to the haunting tune of El Condor Pasa, played on the Pan flute, the train slowly made it's way into Cuzco. The view of  the well lit town square beneath me was something to behold. What a treat! 
Machu Picchu, Cuzco, the Inca Walls in Sacsahuaman and my very 'special' 12 cornered stone where everything I dreamed of and expected.
Dreams do come true.